Creativity knows no boundaries. It is especially true in the fashion world. Where experiments with the traditional patterns is creating impulsion these days. The Kurtis meteoric rise to the top of the fashion world is indeed beguiling. Their exceptional designs and aesthetic grace make them ongoing on and off the catwalks.
Available in different range and styles they can entice you to push the limits. They have originated on the lines of its first cousin Kurta. They are actually the shorter version of Kurtas. Kurtis are also termed as woman's tunic. Combining the fine culture, and the synthesis of tradition these Kurtis are the signature of nomadic royalty. They are the interpretation of the India's royal heritage that reflects the quirky nature of the contemporary fashion. They mark the fashion statement for the for the top notch business women to the typical middle class girl.
Today Kurtis have made a way into the heart of the uber chic designers and and has spread infectiously into the people's wardrobe. From the bylanes of Rishikesh, it has reached to the boutiques of world's most renowned designers. From the spangly mirror work, stylish leopard print, to the block printed handloom variety, Kurtis have been embroidered with every possible print. And have been sported by celebrities like Zeenat Aman, Preety Zinta and Poonam Dhilon.
They are trendy are are available in all sort of sizes and range. They are worn by people irrespective of age. Kurtis goes well with the salwar, trousers, jeans or churidars. They are made fabrics ranging from viscose georgette, polyester, georgette, pure crepe silk, crepe blends, silk, satin, and cotton etc. And now this great elan of Kurtis is ready to capture the hearts of the western world with elegant Indian Designs. It is creating waves and is in haute couture since last three years. It enhances the dignity of the elderly women, the middle aged girls wears it with self assurance and poise and of course the youngsters for that very own style statement that carry an air of beauty self personified.
The tribal groups in India has its own share of embroideries influenced by many cultures depicting the various themes. The Banjara embroidery is one of the most colorful and engaging craft work. The tribal women are working very hard to keep the legend of the Banjara embroidery alive by forwarding it to the coming generations.
The Banjara embroidery is the class by itself with the wide range and varied style and composition. Banjara embroidery mainly features vibrant colors. The motifs on their clothes are often embellished by the laces, beads, colorful threads and intricate mirror work. Their designs are free of complexity of thoughts and are need not to be necessary symmetrical. They are also known for the soft lace work that is taken up mainly by the women trained at home.
The patterns of the Banjara embroidery is oftenly represented by the square or rectangle form. Floral designs, animals or human figures are rarely created by them. Numerous embroidery techniques can be observed in Banjara embroideries such as the cross stitch, chain stitch, stem stitch, couching, appliqué, mirrors, kashida and quit stitch. They often decorate their fabrics with the buttons, leads, glass beads, coins, woolen tassels, cowry shells and threads.
Apart from the traditional skirts, blouses and men jacket the other products made by the Banjara embroidery includes purse, bags, cushion, pillow covers, quilts and wall hangings. Although with the invasion of the machines and technologies, the artwork is modified and the artisans are losing their age old vocation.
Rabri embroidery is the most colorful and most beautiful embroidery in the whole subcontinent. Rabri is the traditional art preciously saved by the tribal groups in Gujarat and Rajasthan, who brought this art from Sindh, Baluchistan and Far East when they came to settled here.
The Rabri embroidery is very famous for the eye catching motifs and beautiful use of the large pieces of mirrors. Originally, the pieces of mica were used instead of mirrors. They use the combination of different colors in order to make the embroidery motifs more beautiful. The sparling stitch is used to beautify ghaghro (skirt), kanchali (blouse), ludis (veil), groom's kediyan (skirt), children cradle cloth, auspicious torans as well as dowry bags, supari bags, purses etc.
The motifs that are drawn are mainly are that of the animals, emblems, folklores, flora etc. The stitches are mainly done for the for embellishments rather than full fledged designs with thread. It needs a lot of hand work and the needle work.
There is the irrational belief behind the use of the mirrors in the region, according to them mirrors protect their children from evil spirits inhabiting their world. The name Rabri is synonymous to the mythology, beliefs and cultural life of the people.
Rabri Embroidery with the intricate mirror and thread work is in demand all over the world. From the small rural areas of the Rajasthan it has spread infectiously into people's wardrobe. The tribes who creates the the embroidery tell their story through its multi-hued threads and tiny embroidery mirrors.
Graceful colors, Chinese Red, Golden Yellow, lush green, creamy white – all are the beautiful colors which you will find in Pashmina. Pashmina, the grace of Kashmir is a kind of wool which is very warm and light in nature. Worn with grace in a number of ways, the kashidakari makes it more beautiful. The splendor of Pashmina lies in the way its worn.
Most of the time you heard about Pashmina, it must have been the Pashmina Shawls. Soft, light like a feather and the coming in beautiful colors, Pashmina Shawls are most spoken of and sought after.
Pashmina is a Urdu and Persian word which became famous after its shawls. Originally the shawls were handwoven and embroided in Kashmir.
The small threads of Pashmina is called as pashm or pashmina. The beginning of Pashmina thread making began in 3rd Century BC. However, professionally the fabric came into existence in the 15th Century. It was Zayn- ul-Abidin, the then ruler of Kashmir who introduced weavers from Central Asia, to the production of Pahmina Shawls into marketing.
For the production of Pashmina, the Pahmina Goat (breed of Goat), is reared in flocks. The goats shed its winter coat every spring. Per goat 3 – 8 ounces of fiber is shed, which is then collected and spun into threads. Its then woven into shawls on which then embroidery is done. For the colors, natural colors coming from flowers and trees are used. These are fast colors and last till the life of the Shawl.
Pashmina Shawls usually come in the size 36 * 80. The smaller size ones are called stols which are used to cover head or simply as style icon. The pure Pashmina is quite costly coming in the range of INR 7000 to INR 50,000, depending upon the thread and the embroidery. The thinner the tread and the intricate the embroidery, the costlier the Pashmina Shawl.
Pashmina Shawls also come in mix of Pashmina and Silk thread. Usually the mix is in the ratio 70 : 30. A Pashmina Shawl can cost as low as $50. But beware of the artificial ones which have popped up in the market. These are usually the viscose ones which come as low as INR 1000. Do not buy these as Pahmina is costly can cannot be sold at such low prices. So next time you go to buy Pashmina, make sure you are buying the real one and not the artificial ones ! Happy Shopping !
Kantha Sarees are one of the most famous sarees in West Bengal. Known for its delicate embroidery, the sarees sell by the name of the Kantha Embroidery than the cloth of the sari.
Kantha involves running embroidery. In Kantha, the cloth is given layers which are then closed by the designer stitches. The art of Stitches is so beautiful that the layers of cloth cannot be seen. Only one layer is seen and looks as if the stitching is done on a single layer rather than the on multiple layers of cloth. Kantha is also said to be doruka meaning turning the worn out clothes into a new one.
Kantha comes in a number of varieties. Like the Archilata Kantha, Baiton Kantha, Durjani Kantha, Lep Kantha, Oaar Kantha, Sujani Kantha, Rumal Kantha. All of them have various uses like some are used to cover mirrors, some for covering books, some for making quilted wallets, some for making warm quilts, some for making blankets and spreads. Various varieties are used for various uses. But the most famous are the Kantha Sarees which top all other varieties of Kantha Embroidery.
History of Kantha Embroidery
Kantha evolved out of the necessity to drape against cold. Kantha in Sanskrit means rags. In other words it is called as Indian Recycling Art. In the olden days when the silks and musins became worn out, the Bengali women instead of throwing them away stitched them and turned them into beautiful clothes. The legend is also that such an art was also used by the Buddhists to save themselves from cold.
The Saree
Generally speaking a Kantha Saree is a work on 5.5 ft long silk saree with a beautiful border and all over work. The work usually depicts heritage depicting wedding, doli, floral baskets , silver and green forests and little flowers. These come in all colors and range anything from $ 100 a piece. The motifs also depict the rich and high class society with different aspects of life. In fact, each piece of a Kantha Saree depict a different aspect of life.
If you want to buy the best quality of Kantha Saree, then you should go to Kolkatta to buy the best at the lowest price. Because Kantha is home product of bengal is easily found there. So when you are in Bengal, don't forget to buy a piece.
Saris, the six meter long cloth are one of the traditional Indian Dresses. For most of the Indians, they mark the Indian Culture in true sense. Draped in a number of ways, these make one of the charms of Indian Women. Capitulated, captured, designed, engrooved, these masterpieces come in one of the most unique ways. Each piece has its own unique identity.
As saris present the Culture of India, there are also the varieties of saris which come in vibrant colors and designs. Saris differ per region, that means as you move along the border lines different states of India, you will find difference in the cloth, embroidery, design and the quality of work. Basically Indian Saris come in Silk, cottons, chiffon and Georget kind of cloths. Out of these hundred varieties of sarees are made. Like the kanjivarumns, kota silk, Katha silk, zardosi and the maheshwaris and bandhej make for some of the most famous saris.
A lot also depends on the fabric which is being used. The same design and work would give a totally different look when worked upon a different type of cloth. See the sheen of a saree when its done on a plain cotton cloth and then on net. You will find a totally different look. The various fabrics used in saris are crepe, brocade, georgete, jaamavar, net, silk and tissue.
Not only the fabric varies but also the work . The most sought after and famous works done of saris are aabia, aari, beads, chikankari, cut work, gold work, gota, jamdani, kantha, meenakari, mukesh, stone, paisley, tikki, zari, zardosi, kundan , knots and faroonkhabadi.
It takes months to make a sari especially when its hand woven. The time o f making a saree increases when the work of embroidery is there. The thinner the cloth, the delicate the work and more the time to make one piece. The price of a sari also depends upon embroidery. The heavier and the more intricate the embroidery, more the price of the sari.
Another class of saris are the South Indian Sarees. These are a class apart as these are made on pure silk. These are known as Kanjivurumns. Begining from a range of Rs 5000/- minimum , these are supposed to be a special gift in most of the Indian Wedding. At least one Kanjivurum is kept with every brides belongings. Its a pized possession!
For every piece which is woven or handmade comes the emotions of Indian women. Cradelled and then sent away, these saris make one of the most important things of a Indian Women, just like her Jewellery !
Mukti Sharma
